Like Paris and Rome, Madrid's historic center and medieval architecture attracts hordes of tourist from elsewhere in Europe and beyond. While the mainstay attractions in the Centro neighborhood, like the Plaza Mayor, are popular for good reason, much of what makes Madrid unique can be found outside of the main tourist areas, often in more residential areas.
To that end, I recommend exploring Madrid on foot with a map and a willingness to get lost. It is a walkable city, with many of its best attractions hidden in otherwise quiet neighborhoods.
On one recent visit, we stayed at the Posada del Leon de Oro, a 15 room hotel in a refurbished 17th century townhouse. Located at one end of Cava Baja (see below), it is perfectly situated for a tapas crawl or bar hopping in La Latina and the surrounding neighborhoods. High marks for supremely comfortable beds and well-designed rooms.
But beware: because the hotel opens directly onto the lively Cava Baja, it can be noisy from 8pm until well after midnight, especially in rooms that face the street.
One of the sublime joys of visiting Madrid is participating in its eating and drinking culture. Among the highlights: dinners that stretch from 10pm until midnight (or later!), the omnipresent plates of every variety of cured meats, and beers served in 6-ounce pours (cañas) to ensure your drink remains ice cold.
In recent years, Madrid's traditional food markets have been transformed into a new sort of culinary destination. Locals still frequent these markets to purchase meat, seafood, produce, and other staples, but vendors offering reimagined tapas, skewers, cured meats, and more allow visitors and locals alike to eat and drink inside Madrid's multi-story neighborhood markets.
The first market to undergo this transformation was 100-year old Mercado de San Miguel, located near the Plaza Mayor. San Miguel remains popular today; as a result, it is often flooded with tourists and has few "traditional" vendors alongside its tapas and oysters stalls.
Fortunately, markets in less touristed areas of the city have followed suit. Mercado de San Fernando, in the working class Lavapiés neighborhood, houses trendy new stalls selling locally produced sidra and craft beer alongside family-owned butcher and fish stalls. Inside San Fernando, don't miss Bendito Vinos y Vinilos, which specializes in natural wines: Bendito's gregarious owner will help you pick a wine to accompany one of his excellent fiambres y quesos plates.
Mercado de Vallehermoso, north of Centro, and Mercado de San Anton, in Chueca, offer similar selections of food, wine, and beer stalls.
Excellent tapas restaurants can be found in every Madrid neighborhood. But Cava Baja's density of bars and restaurants make for an ideal tapas crawl. Pick three or more restaurants and have a small plate or two at each, each dish accompanied by a beer or glass of rioja. Favorites along Cava Baja include Casa Lucas (known for its braised oxtail, or rabo de toro), Taberna Tempranillo, and Los Huevos de Lucio.
